You Better Belize It

October 9, 2024

By Tami VandenBerg

“Sub Umbra Floreo” – Under the Shade I Flourish
– National Motto

“Take Nothing but pictures, leave nothing but footprints, Eat Nothing but Fry Jacks.”
– Anonymous

Known as ‘The Jewel’ by locals and tourists alike, Belize is an incredibly special place. Well-preserved nature, cultural diversity and relaxed residents are a few of the reasons for the title. We first visited Belize in 2011 for a family wedding. I had visited several Caribbean islands, and we were very interested in finding a warm, friendly spot to escape a week or two of our northern winters. On my visits to the Caribbean, I found it challenging to find a place where locals and tourists interacted regularly. I’ve never been interested in all-inclusive resorts. My favorite travel adventures always have included learning as much about the local culture as possible, lots of physical activity, and delicious food and beverages. I found what I was looking for in San Pedro, located on the Island of Ambergris Caye. 

Formerly the British Crown Colony, ‘British Honduras’ (1862-1981), Belize has been an independent country since 1981. Located on the northeastern coast of Central America, the Mayan civilization spread across the region from 1500 BC and flourished until around 900 AD. Up to a million Maya inhabited what is now present-day Belize in the Classic Era from 600-1000 AD. Spanish explorers arrived in the 16th century, and declared it part of the Spanish Empire. 

English pirates arrived in the region during the Spanish era, and eventually, a permanent settlement was founded. Slavery was abolished in 1836, and Britain took over the region in 1862. 

The current population of Belize is just under 400,000 people. In 1996, the Belize Barrier Reef was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The official language of Belize is now English. The vernacular language is Belizean Creole. Spanish, Mayan, German, Garifuna and Chinese are also commonly spoken. Many, if not most of Belizians, are multilingual.

The convergence of so many cultures is a key reason we fell in love with the country. From the food to the music to the artwork to the languages, there are so many unique experiences to be had.

Many visitors to Belize come for the scuba diving, snorkeling, fishing and boating options. Others come for the wildlife, or the archaeological sites. From the Hol Chan Marine Reserve to the Lighthouse Reed Atoll and the Blue Hole, one can experience gorgeous waters filled with schools of tropical fish like the queen angelfish, sea turtles, rays, nurse sharks and over 90 species of coral.

In addition to visiting Ambegris Caye, the mainland has some pretty special experiences. Actun Tunichil Muknal (ATM Cave) is near San Ignacio. This is the most popular cave tour in Belize – notable as a Maya archaeological site that includes skeletons, ceramics and stoneware. Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary and Jaguar Preserve has an excellent reputation and is the only Jaguar reserve in the world.

Caye Caulker is near Ambergris Caye, and is still less developed and popular with backpackers. Stop by the Caye Caulker Animal Shelter if you are there – you can make a donation to help cover the food and spend some time loving on the animals. We have taken a Catamaran between the two cays, stopped for snorkeling in between, and watched the sunset as we returned. It was a lovely day.

Whenever we travel, we seek out businesses owned by locals in an effort to both understand the culture better, meet locals and support the local economy directly. Elvi’s Kitchen is my favorite – you will need reservations during high season. Other locally owned spots include the Belize Chocolate Company, Dit’s Restaurant, Estel’s Dining by the Sea, Pupuseria Salvadoreno, Caye Coffee Roasting, Belizean Breezes Soap co., Robin’s Kitchen and 12 Belize.

Local cuisine usually includes a variety of seafood, plantains, rice and beans, fry jacks, johnny cakes and more. We are vegetarian, so when we’ve hit our limit on Belizean options, we check out the Indian Restaurants, the Mediterranean options and italian.

Another aspect that I love about Ambergris Caye is the wide variety of lodging available – from cheap hostels, to five star resorts. Our preference is to stay in San Pedro and book a spot right on the beach. Ocean Tide Beach Resort, Sunbreeze and Sunbreeze Suites are a few of our favorites. If you prefer something more secluded or fancy, try out Victoria House or Portofino Beach Resort.

Transportation on the island includes bicycling, golf carts, taxis, and my favorite – walking. The island is flat, so cycling is a fabulous option. You can rent a golf cart for a few hours or for your full stay – or anything in between. In high season, you likely want to reserve your golf cart in advance. Taxis can be great getting around San Pedro, but if you want to visit the outskirts, you may not find a timely taxi to return you to your lodging.

As someone interested in fitness and wellness, I love taking long walks on the beach. Local laws allow the public to walk along the water throughout the island. This is also a great place for a beach run – especially in the mornings and evenings. Many hotels have pools and access to the sea, so there is plentiful swimming. Zen Belize offers excellent yoga classes, and the spa at Sunbreeze hotel has fantastic massages – ask for Delny.

One Belize dollar is worth roughly 50 cents in American currency. Be sure to bring some cash with you. Most businesses strongly prefer cash and will accept US or Belizian dollars. High end restaurants will usually take cards. Very few spots accept AMEX. ATM’s are few and far between and not always reliable. I’ve had the best luck at the Atlantic bank. I’ve had more difficulty with Belize Bank ATM’s.

In addition to the Animal Shelter in Caye Caulker, I’d recommend looking into ACES Wildlife Rescue, Belize Food for the Poor, Pack for a Purpose and the World Pediatric Project. When a country welcomes me so warmly to their beautiful shores, I like to pitch in to some causes that fit my values.

Cannabis use is common and generally tolerated in Belize. Possession of 10 grams or less on your private premises was decriminalized in 2017. Years ago, two women I know asked about LGBTQ tolerance in Belize before they visited. Fortunately, Belize is generally tolerant and has many organizations promoting LGBTQ rights and culture. Due to a multicultural population, a variety of racial cultures already exist and are open to all visitors.

Regarding logistics, it is easiest to fly into Belize City. Delta, United and American all offer regular flights. Once in Belize City, travelers can opt for a small plane via Tropic Air or Mayan Airlines, or take a water taxi. For more adventurous folks, or for those with more time than funds, you can also fly into Cancun and take transit south to Belize.

Lastly, for those wanting more of a deep dive into popular culture, I’d recommend the podcast ‘White Devil’ and the Hulu documentary about Shyne – a Belizean politician rapper who is the current leader of the opposition in the Belize House of Representatives. It is called ‘The Honorable Shyne.’

Happy Travels!